Head up to the first floor of the Gallerie d'Italia, at Via Toledo 177, and step into the Caravaggio gallery. The Martirio di sant'Orsola dates from 1610 and has had a new installation since 1 August 2025, following a cleaning by Laura Cibrario and Fabiola Jatta that brought back into view three figures lost over time. If you saw it on an earlier trip, that alone is reason to return.
A second visit to Naples can begin with what has changed since. From Follaky Secret Garden, in Chiaia, the Gallerie d'Italia are about a 10-minute walk away, and the maiolica cloister of Santa Chiara, in the historic centre, about 24.
The Gallerie d'Italia, Via Toledo 177: the Caravaggio worth seeing again
If you remember the museum at Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano, which housed it from 1999 to 2022, the venue has changed. The Gallerie d'Italia in Naples are now in the former Banco di Napoli building, designed by Marcello Piacentini, opened on 9 May 1940 and turned into a museum in 2022 to a design by Michele De Lucchi.
Lent to London in 2024 and to Rome in 2025, the painting has since returned to Naples; as of September 2026, the museum's website lists no loans for the painting this year.
The Gallerie are open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 19:00, and Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 to 20:00; they are closed on Mondays, and last admission is an hour before closing. Admission is free for everyone on the first Sunday of the month. The museum recommends booking online, but tickets can also be bought at the desk on arrival. It's about a 10-minute walk from Follaky.
Santa Chiara's maiolica cloister
In the Santa Chiara complex, in the historic centre, the cloister was redesigned by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro. The maiolica tiles on its 64 pillars and benches, with popular, seafaring and mythological scenes, are the work of the Donato and Giuseppe Massa workshop: give yourself time to look at them pillar by pillar.
At Via Santa Chiara 49c, the cloister is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 to 17:00 and Sunday from 10:00 to 14:00. Tickets are sold only at the complex's ticket office: third-party vouchers are not accepted. It's about a 24-minute walk from Follaky.
November and December 2026: Movimentale at Capodimonte
If you're returning in autumn, the Movimentale festival has two dates at the Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte. On 14 and 15 November 2026, IgorxMoreno presents a performance inspired by Annibale Carracci's Ercole al bivio; on 12 and 13 December 2026, Antonello Tudisco's HYBRIS is staged, drawn from Filippo Tagliolini's La Caduta dei Giganti. Entry arrangements for these dates should be checked on the official page.
By taxi, Capodimonte is about 20 minutes from Vico Monteroduni 16, about 50 by bus; on foot it takes over an hour, which we wouldn't recommend. We cover it in Movimentale at Capodimonte.
Three or four nights: how to divide up the days?
Three nights give you two full days, with check-in from 15:00 to 20:00 and check-out by 10:00. One possible plan: arrive Thursday afternoon for a first evening around Via Chiaia and Piazza dei Martiri; Friday at the Gallerie d'Italia, which close at 19:00; Saturday at Santa Chiara, where the cloister stays open until 17:00. On Sunday, departure day, check-out is from Vico Monteroduni 16.
With four nights, the full days become three, and you can devote one to whichever place you preferred last time. To choose between the two lengths of stay, read Three or Four Nights in Naples; for dinner, see the restaurants page.
Why return with a base in Chiaia?
Follaky Secret Garden is a boutique B&B in Chiaia, in the residential grounds of Palazzo Giovagnoni. From here, Piazza dei Martiri is about a 3-minute walk, the seafront about 7, and the Teatro di San Carlo about 8. If you stayed in the historic centre last time, Staying in Chiaia as a Couple compares the two areas.
On days out in the city, you leave onto Via Chiaia through 149F, using the park's private lift, which takes a 20-cent coin; for taxis and luggage, the address is Vico Monteroduni 16. The routes are set out in getting here.
There are two suites, each for two guests, with a queen bed and Follaky Breakfast included. The Suite Chiaia Deluxe Garden View is the more intimate of the two, its window looking onto two neighbouring private gardens. The Suite Toledo Deluxe Private Patio is larger and brighter, with a private patio. If you're returning with another couple, Double Suites – Exclusive Use combines them for exclusive use, for up to four guests.
Decide first what you want to see again, then which suite to set out from each morning: with the green of neighbouring gardens outside the window, or with a private patio. Check the dates for your return and compare the two suites.
